The Best Pastries to get in the “Land of Pastries” that is Paris, France

DSC00883Going abroad to Paris and Aix-en-Provence was the best decision I’ve ever made. I stayed away from the US for the whole year and developed a deeper relationship with the amazingness of food. Especially pastry, which France is renowned for! While not all of the treats on this list are ones I could afford every day, the ones that have made it to my top tier and special bites that are worth the splurge and ones that I keep recommending to everyone I know as my some of my favorite pastries in the world.

While these are obviously not the only options available in the city and these do not include every pastry I’ve ever eaten in France, this list includes the places I went back to as often as I could, the places I dream about revisiting, and the places recommend to people who are going to Paris. This is the short list (as short as I can make it):

Croissants from Poilâne

Right near the Bon Marché is the world-renowned boulangerie, famous for its country bread (pain de campagne) and old-style techniques in an ancient oven. While the croissant itself may look to be less yummy than some others that you might see in any patisserie on the street (such as Eric Kayser, for example), trust me, the minute you put a piece of this croissant (as close to the early morning as you can get one since it will be fresher) you won’t be able to eat another croissant without comparing to that of Poilâne. Since Poilâne is more of a boulangerie than a patisserie, I had figured their croissant would be bread-ier than most, but no! It’s buttery, flaky outside and fluffy, lush inside was enough to win me over, and there was not a single bad bite in the whole treat.

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While you’re there, you might as well pick up a quarter (“quart” pronounced “car”) of the pain de campagne (those giant breads with a P carved into them) or a tiny rustic apple tartlette. Both of those are delicious as well. And another plus of this being a boulangerie: the costs are very low! The croissant is about 1 euro! It’s absolutely worth a stop to this world-renowned boulangerie, even if it’s just to take a peak in the window.

Éclair from Carl Marletti

This little hole-in-the-wall shop just off the end of Rue Mouffetard smells delicious as soon as you get close. While you may walk past it the first time, you will not be able to miss the aroma. There’s a kitchen working in the back of this little shop that keeps churning out such delicacies, but my clear favorite is the éclair caramel au beurre salé.

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It’s absolutely decadent, and the extra sugar crunch on the outside of the pâte au chou makes it a cut above in the delicious department, and the cream inside is to die for. As you bite into it, the cream comes spilling out the other side, so watch out, because you don’t want to lose any of the perfect creaminess.

Pasteis from Comme à Lisbonne

While it may seem strange that I’m recommending a Portuguese delicacy as a necessary stop in Paris, I swear this is the best pasteis I have had outside of Lisbon. If you’re not planning on making it to Portugal anytime soon, pick up one of these warm custard filled pastries.

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It’s only 2 euros, always warm, and dusted with cinnamon (always say “oui” to cannelle), and the pastry from this tiny store in the Marais never disappoints. It only sells pasteis and coffee, so you know you’re getting the best every time, and they make new batches all day, so if they’re running out, they’ll soon replace it with piping hot pasteis. Plus, this little store (and most of the Marais) is open on Sundays, meaning you can pick one up on the down days in Paris.

Tartelette au citron (Lemon tartlet) from Arnaud Delmontel

On the lively Rue des Martyrs, this fabulous patisserie has a display window with a line of these perfect yellow domes amidst the other pastries. While the pastry itself may look like it would be dense or rich, this citrusy pastry cream melts away with an airiness that leaves you satisfied but wanting more. It’s perfect. And it’s beautiful to boot.

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This perfect dome is worth the splurge because you really have to taste it to believe that something that small can pack a powerful punch and melt into nothing. It’s really the perfect lemon tart.

Popelini from Popelini

This up-and-coming pastry seems to be heading toward taking over the macaron fad in Paris, so watch out for these little goodies. They’re like the best cream puff you’ve ever had.

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They come in a bunch of flavors, and the packaging of these treats is really aesthetically pleasing. The place only sells Popelini (hence the name), so you know you’re getting the best. Now there are more locations springing up all over Paris, so you won’t have to go up to Rue des Martyrs to pick up one (or a few) of these treats.

Saint Honoré from La Patisserie des Rêves

This pastry is unreal, as if from a dream (see what I did there? relating the name of the place to the fantasticalness of the desserts it sells?). The flaky pastry topped with sweet cream and caramel covered cream puffs is decadent to say the least.

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The crisp cookie bottom holds up the crunchy coated cream puffs on one side and a smooth, creamy chantilly on the other. It’s a little daunting to eat (and I recommend eating it while sitting down), but it’s definitely worth the effort!

Carrot Cake from Sugarplum Cake Shop

If you’ve been in France for a while (like I was) and are desperately craving some great American desserts, look no further than the great American bakery, Sugarplum Cake Shop. Everything they serve screams America, and they prepare each treat the way it should be, with great ingredients, picture perfect presentation, and love.

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From rice krispie treats and cheese cake to muffins and peanut butter bars, almost any American dessert prepared the right way can be found here. You’re met with a friendly “Hello” when you walk in, and with the cake and coffee, you may never want to leave. Big pluses: free wifi on the weekdays, free refills for filtered coffee (although it is 4 euros to start), comfy couches and English speaking personnel, and, of course, Le Carrot Cake 🙂

Tarte au Citron Meringuée from Le Loir dans la Théière

While the mile-high meringue may seem insurmountable, the tarte is definitely an experience (even without being able to finish the pile of fluff on top of the lemon tart).

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Le Loir dans la Théière is a great place to get brunch, lunch, or a snack in the Marais, selling great tartes both savory and sweet. The freshest of ingredients are used to create these fresh tartes, making them taste that much better. While this isn’t a place where you can easily come in and take something to go, it’s worth a break from a hard day of walking (and it’s delicious to boot)! This lemon tart, to compare it directly with the other lemon tart on this list, is much more of a novelty than a delicacy, and it’s hard to take away with you. But it’s definitely great to take pictures with and tell stories about, and the other, freshly made savory tarts and quiches are worth the trip.

Millefeuille à la Minute from Jacques Génin

This new craze about the millefeuille made to order is starting to circulate, but the only one that I have heard fabulous things about (and can corroborate) is the one from Jacques Génin. While this man is already a famous chocolatier, with delicate chocolates and caramels (pick up a bunch of those), his pastries are also incredible.

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By filling the buttery, flaky, crunchy cookies with luscious pastry cream and a raspberry coulis (if you order the raspberry one as I did), Génin creates a fantastic dessert (or snack) that comes out slightly different every time. This treat is an expensive one, I’ll give you that, but the atmosphere of the room and the deliciousness of the treat might overpower the price.

Overall, the pastries in Paris are incredible, and this is not a complete list, but this is the start to a lifelong journey of finding the best of the best.

Addresses:

Poilâne

8, rue du Cherche-Midi (6ème)

Carl Marletti

51, rue Censier (5ème)

Comme à Lisbonne

37, rue du Roi de Sicile (4ème)

Arnaud Delmontel

39, rue des Martyrs (9ème)

Popelini

44, rue des Martyrs (9ème)

La Patisserie des Rêves

93, rue du Bac (7ème)

Sugarplum Cake Shop

68, rue Cardinal Lemoine (5ème)

Le Loir dans la Théière

3, rue des Rosiers (4ème)

Jacques Génin

133, rue de Turenne (3ème)

Where you should be getting coffee in Manhattan

Coffee can be a necessity in a city: the world moves fast, and sometimes you need a little help to keep your energy up. Naturally, when I need my caffeine fix, I only want the best of the best (since Manhattan is the place to get some of the best coffee in the US). Here are my top hits.

Blue Bottle Coffee

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A place that’s serious about their coffee process (and wears great hats). Super delicious cappuccinos, freshly made drip coffee, and a very cool syphon bar for an innovative approach to coffee.

Also, their baked goods are quite special, especially their very ginger-y ginger cookie. And my favorite location is only a few steps away from Chelsea Market (one of my favorite food destinations in the City).

Stumptown Coffee

This hipster joint attached to the Ace Hotel in midtown is THE place to get the best coffee. Some other highly rated places in the City and in other cities around the world are only great because they use the Stumptown roaster brand coffee.

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In addition to the great coffee beans, the preparation is spectacular, from cappuccino to cold brew. Plus, the servers all wear cool hats and too-cool attitudes. But the best part: they have a loyalty card that actually gets you a free drink after 10, so despite their high prices, the coffee can still end up costing the same as a Starbucks addiction (but taste 50 times better).

Ninth Street Espresso

While we’re on the subject of Chelsea Market, I should probably also mention the amazing coffee you can get just inside the market itself. Ninth Street Espresso has incredible coffee, and you can take it on the go (which is perfect for a stroll through the market.

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The beans are excellent, the preparation is awesome, and the microfoam is as great as it should be. Plus it’s hard to beat the location.

La Colombe

When a store says they serve La Colombe coffee, it’s a big deal. So, naturally, going to La Colombe itself is spectacular. The coffee is fresh and sweet (without sugar) and prepared exquisitely.

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The service is friendly, particular, and slow: all things that show they really care about the quality of the coffee you get. Delicious.

Third Rail Coffee

This coffee place, while it does not roast its own beans, prepares an excellent cup of coffee with perfect microfoam.

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Plus it’s a tad cheaper than these other places, so for people who are worried about the price of the expensive-coffee-habit will prefer this place.

This list does not include some of the fabulous cups of coffee I have yet to try around the city, but it is a work in progress.

Stumptown Coffee

18 W 29th Street

Blue Bottle Coffee

450 W. 15th St.

Ninth Street Espresso

75 9th Ave

La Colombe Coffee

270 Lafayette Street

Third Rail Coffee

240 Sullivan Street

Best French Macaroons in Paris

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While the craze for these petite treats is going from fiery passion to fizzling spark, I figured I would get my two cents in while the going was still at least lukewarm. Unlike the America macaroon, the French macaroon, or “macaron” as I prefer to call it, is an almond flour meringue cookie sandwich stuffed with ganaches and pastry creams and jams and other delicacies. The way to tell a great macaroon from a not-so-great one is not only the texture of the cookie but also the quality of the filling.

By the end of my nine month sojourn in France, I was able to properly enjoy a perfect macaroon and could not stand to eat one that was not perfect. Here are my favorites of any macaroons I tried in Paris:

Pierre Hermé

This master of pastry not only sells delicious macaroons, but also some of the fanciest desserts I had in Paris. He is world renowned as the creator of fantastical renditions of traditional treats as well as new twists on old favorites. Everything he creates is obviously yummy, but it’s his macaroons that originally made him famous to other people who weren’t pastry chefs!

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The flavors of these range from the classic (caramel, raspberry…) to the kooky (olive oil, asparagus…) but all of the flavors are equally great. The cookie is the perfect blend of crunchy and soft, the fillings are fresh and natural, and the presentation is, as expected, superb.

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This is my number one choice of anywhere to get a macaroon in Paris, topping traditional favorites like Ladurée and Gerard Mulot.

Ladurée

While one may be considered a tourist for holding the famous mint green bag, it’s worth it to pick up of few of their delicate macaroons. This famous patisserie has now expand into an international chain (with a post in New York City (!!!!)), so it’s no longer a Paris original, but it definitely tastes better on this side of the ocean.

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The macaroons they make are definitely worth the price, but sometimes I feel like they’re not worth waiting in the long line for. Yes, they’re yummy, but they’re much smaller than those of their competitors at Pierre Hermé and have less originality in the flavors. They seem to have stopped trying to create the new and focused on trying to expand. They are content with living up to the expectations of tourists instead of trying to exceed them, which is a real shame since with a touch more of creativity, they could have maintained their top spot in my list.

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I have to say this, though: the fact that they fill their caramel macarons with actual caramel au beurre salé instead of a caramel flavored pastry cream puts that macaroon at the top of any list (even above Pierre Hermé). Stop in just to pick up one of those (although be prepared to wait in a long line of tourists).

Carrette

This fancy salon de thé right by the Trocadero (with the best view of the Eiffel Tower) has a glitzy take-away counter right inside, past all the glamorous people eating their fancy treats with tiny cups of espresso. And from there, you can get their macaroons to go.

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The macaroons themselves are both beautiful to look at and yummy to eat, plus you can pick up a bag of them and walk right over to the Eiffel Tower and stare at its glory while you munch on these delicacies.

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While they may not top the list in either texture or flavor, their location alone is a reason to stop in for these cute treasures. And they’re delicious, so that’s a plus!

Gerard Mulot

A household name in Paris, the man produces some more reasonably priced macaroons in imaginative flavors and colorful presentation. His store sells both the sweet and the savory (a cross of a patisserie and a boulangerie), so it’s a great place to come buy your entire picnic lunch!

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The macaroons themselves too are very nice and are done the right way, which is always a great thing to see when a shop tries to do everything. It’s a great place to go, and the area it’s in is just fun to be in anyway, so this quick detour is an bonus!

Places you could definitely skip:

Dalloyau

This chain is all around Paris, and while I would step in here to get a slice of their famous Opéra cake, I would skip the macaroons. The cookies are a bit too almond-y and the fillings did not cover up the nuttiness that took over each flavor.

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Basically, go here for the Opéra, not the macarons.

Georges Larnicol

This famous chocolatier has his decorative display of macaroons prominently placed in the center of the main store on Boulevard St Germain, but don’t be tempted by the beauty: the texture isn’t quite right and the fillings are a bit too sweet.

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Overall, while I would stop in here to pick up the amazing chocolates, I would not recommend you go in just for the macaroons.

Addresses:

Pierre Hermé

72 rue Bonaparte (6ème arrondissement)

Ladurée

75, avenue des Champs Elysées (8ème arrondissement)

864 Madison Avenue  New York, NY

Carrette

4 Place du Trocadéro (16ème arrondissement)

Gerard Mulot

76 Rue de Seine (6ème arrondissement)

Dalloyau

2 Place Edmond Rostand (6ème arrondissement)

Georges Larnicol

132 Boulevard Saint-Germain (6ème arrondissement)